In short: This was supposed to be a peaceful three-day paddle down the legendary Suwannee, just me, my new pup River Dog, and the wild beauty of South Georgia. The Blackwater had other plans. What started as an adventure turned quick into a fight with the elements and with the river's oldest residents. I lost a camera in a tree, dodged storms, watched the water rise, and passed on camp after camp until I found ground I trusted.
We loaded up and put in at Fargo around 1:15 with clouds that did not look good. The river was higher than I anticipated, which just meant it was moving good. I was floating along without even paddling. My buddy Rocky who came to grab my truck said he came through some bad storms just south, so I knew what might be coming. Sure enough the rain came back, and going through a tree in that current I lost my camera before I could get back to it. One down. That is how the river reminds you it is in charge.
I saw a lot of pretty spots where I could have camped, little islands and sandbars, and I wanted to stay on one. But I kept thinking about the trip with Tina where the water rose on us after the rain. This river is different, but it probably rises the same way, and it was already up. I read the level off the water marks on the tree trunks, that white line showing where it last came up. With the river running fast and rising, I passed on the islands. Last thing I wanted was to wake up and not have an island under me. If the water were a lot lower I would have done it. Not this time.
The Suwannee was flat full of gators. One came off the bank at maybe eight foot, then another around four or five, then two more swimming toward the bank, one going under right in front of me. This river is loaded with them everywhere, so I kept River Dog on a short leash and out of the water. They come off the banks as you pass, but they want nothing to do with the boat. You stay calm, keep your line, and give them room. Toward evening I finally found a spot I trusted, up off the water with road access out to 441 in case I needed to walk out, and got camp set before dark. When the river is high and full of gators, the whole game is reading the water, passing on the wrong camps, and keeping an exit in your back pocket.
Reading river level, storm calls, camp selection under rising water, and staying safe solo. It is all in the All-Weather Expedition guide.
Read the All-Weather Expedition guideA rising river can take the island out from under you overnight. With the water already higher than expected, I passed on the little islands and looked for higher ground with an exit route.
Look for the white water mark on the tree trunks that shows how high it last came up, watch the current speed, and note how fast it rose on you that day. Fast and rising means higher ground.
Keep a dog on a short leash and out of the water, do not turn over, and camp on solid ground up off the bank. Stay calm and give the gators room.
Keep everything leashed or tied in and cover your load before rough water. If something is gone, it is gone. The priority is keeping yourself and the boat right side up.
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