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From the Blackwater · Suwannee

Suwannee Solo, Forgot Propane, Found a Gator Problem

Blackwater Outdoor Journeys · one man, one canoe, one overnight on the water

In short: This is a solo overnight on the water in pure South Georgia swamp country. I get the boat unloaded, scout the bank, find my fat lighter, and hang the hammock. Then I go to fire up the burner and realize the propane is still sitting at the house. So I cook straight on the fire. All the while a big gator is holding across the river, watching me, and when I ease down to wash off he comes swimming right at me.

Scouting camp and finding fat lighter

First thing I do when I pull into a spot is walk it. There was a game trail running back off the bank, deer tracks all through it, and I like to poke around a little to make sure I am not stumbling onto somebody's moonshine still. Back in the deadfall I found what I came for, a good solid piece of fat lighter laying right on the ground, and another one a few steps past it. That old dead pine turns to fat lighter over the years and it is the best fire starter there is. Plenty of wood back there too, so I would not have to work hard for a fire.

While I set up, a little bitty gator about two foot long swam by and perched up on the far bank to watch me. Cute little fellow. His big old buddy was the one I kept an eye on.

The propane that stayed home

I got the pack unloaded and the hammock strung up between two trees, and then I reached for the stove. I had the burner. I did not have the propane. That was the second thing I left this trip, and it turned a simple supper into a little bit of a project. But you do not get mad out here, you get to work. I set the pots straight down on the fire, warmed a can of beef stew and made a pouch of buttery mashed potatoes, and slopped it up with a piece of white bread. That ain't bad at all. Next morning I fried up spam on the same fire and rolled it in a burrito shell, wishing the whole time I had remembered the eggs too.

A gator that would not quit watching

By evening I was hot and I told myself I would get in the water for exactly a minute and twenty two seconds, wash off, and get out. That gator across the river had other plans. Soon as I started splashing he came off his bank and swam straight at me, fast, cutting right through the water. I got out quick. Curious as I am, I splashed a little more just to see, and he came again. That told me everything I needed to know. I stayed shallow, kept my supper started, and let him have the river. Out here the danger is not the gator minding his business, it is you forgetting he is there.

What this trip teaches

A pack list you actually check, cooking on the fire when the stove fails you, and reading a gator so you know when to stay out of the water. It is all in the Canoe Camping Playbook.

Read the Canoe Camping Playbook

Questions about solo swamp camping

What do you do if you forget your propane?

You cook on the fire. Set the pots right on the coals or a rack, keep the food moving so it does not scorch, and boil your water the old way. It takes longer and the pots get black, but a hot supper is a hot supper.

Is it safe to camp solo around alligators?

Yes, if you use your head. Keep camp back from the bank, do not clean fish at the water's edge, and never feed a gator. Stay out of the water where the big ones are working and give a watching gator plenty of room.

What is fat lighter and why use it?

Fat lighter is old pine wood soaked with hardened sap. It lights fast, burns hot, and works even when damp. A few small chunks will start a fire in about any conditions.

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