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From the Blackwater · St. Marys River

We Turned Back When the Water Ran Too Low: St. Marys

Blackwater Outdoor Journeys · a pivot that saved the trip

In short: The plan was to spend the night on the Okefenokee platform at Miles Hammock. We got about three miles in, found ourselves dragging through six inches of water, and made the pivotal decision to turn around before it got worse. That call is how we ended up on a St. Marys sandbar eating corn beef hash the next morning with a good day of fishing behind us. Knowing when to turn back is a skill, and it is the one this trip is really about.

The plan that changed at mile three

We rolled off a St. Marys night with a plan to move over and paddle into the Okefenokee for a night on the platform at Miles Hammock. We got about three miles in and the water was down to roughly six inches. Now you can grind through shallow water for a while, but you have to think about what is ahead, not just what is under you. Push deep into a route like that and keep getting shallower and you can end up stuck miles from the truck with the light fading. So we made the pivotal decision to turn around before things got worse. That is not abandoning the trip. That is abandoning one bad route and keeping the trip.

A sandbar breakfast instead

We backed out and set up on a St. Marys sandbar, a river we know holds plenty of water. Next morning it was 52 degrees, warm in the sleeping bag and cold the second you stepped out. I got the fire going and cooked up my favorite, corn beef hash with three eggs cracked right in. Those were frozen eggs from the summer before. If you keep chickens and get more eggs than you can use, you crack and freeze them, then thaw and fry them on the trail. We said our blessing and ate breakfast on the bank with turkeys gobbling in the timber and every kind of bird singing. That is the part that does not always make the film, just sitting there enjoying the peace.

Fish, and no hurry to leave

With no schedule to keep, we spent the day lazing around and catching fish. Bluegill, redbreast, and a couple of blue cats that put up a real fight, one so strong I could not turn him for a minute. We came out fishing Tina against me and she caught more, but I got the biggest, which I will take. We wound up with seven fish, and that is not a bad morning on the river. A loaded canoe moves about three to four miles an hour, so we cruised the couple of bends back to the landing and made it in 28 minutes. The Okefenokee will still be there when the rain fills it back up. This trip turned out good because we were willing to change the plan.

What this trip teaches

When to turn around, how to pivot to a backup river, and reading water levels before they trap you. It is all in the Canoe Camping Playbook.

Read the Canoe Camping Playbook

Questions about turning back and low water

When should you turn back on a canoe trip?

Turn back before it gets worse, not after. When the water was down to about six inches only three miles in, the rest of the route no longer added up, so we pivoted while we still had daylight and options. Turning around is not quitting the trip, it is quitting the bad route.

Why was the Okefenokee route too shallow?

It was a low-water stretch during a dry spell. Three miles in we were dragging through roughly six inches of water. Go deeper into that and you risk being stuck miles from the truck, so we backed out to water we knew would carry the canoe.

How fast does a loaded canoe travel?

About three to four miles an hour. That number matters for trip math, because a route that looks short on a map can eat a whole day once you factor in current, wind, and obstacles.

Can you freeze fresh chicken eggs for camp?

Yes. If you keep chickens and have extra eggs in summer, crack and freeze them, then thaw and cook them later on the trail. We fried frozen eggs from the summer before right there on the sandbar.

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